Posts Tagged ‘building’

How to Build a Mailbox

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

Even in the current age of email, there are still those whoBuild a Mailbox prefer to write and send their letters the old-fashioned way. In order to receive these traditional hand-carried messages, one will have to know how to build a mailbox if they don’t happen to have one already.

To begin how to build a mailbox, one would need a post to perch it on, which would be made of either metal or pressure-treated lumber. A metal post should have a diameter of 2”, while a wooden post should be no more than 4×4”. Other materials needed are 2 side posts or an extended arm post, a shovel or a clam shell post hole digger, concrete, gravel, and of course, the container that will be used as the mailbox.

The actual box where the mail will be inserted can either be bought or built. One can purchase a ready-made metal mail container built according to standard regulation size. If one decides to construct their own, it has to meet the guidelines of the US Postal Service and will need to be verified for approval by the local postmaster. The mailbox is required to have a top and bottom, side walls, a back portion, and a hinged door placed in front. The box or house number at the side of the box should be in a contrasting color and must be no less than 1-inch high. A signal flag should be attached to the box’s side as well.

To build the mailbox’s support, the box is set on a horizontal piece of wood, the size of which depends on the size of the box. They are then attached to the post. A couple of boards are bolted to the post, each board set at an angle of 45 degrees. To make the support stable, the boards are attached to both sides of the post, as well as to the bottom of the horizontal piece.

In installing the mailbox, one has to determine its position. The mailbox must be placed on the road’s right side, facing the direction of traffic. Its roadside face should be 6-8” from the shoulder’s edge or from the curb’s face. If it is placed near gravel roads, it must be distanced further from the edge of the roadway’s graveled area. A hole is dug which should have a depth of around 2’ and should not be wider than required. The post is buried in the ground, and then anchored using either concrete or stones in a layer of gravel. A 6” gravel layer is put at the bottom. One must install the mailbox no less than 42” above the ground.

The concrete is prepared and poured around the post. A level is used to find the post square, and the concrete is allowed to set until the following day. The hole is filled with soil and pressed down firmly. The mailbox is then attached to the base, securely screwing it in place on the board.

If one should think that trying how to build a mailbox is a somewhat futile endeavor in these high-tech times, think again. Aside from letters, they are also made to receive small packages, or bills, or ordered magazines and catalogs, and so on. The mailbox still pretty much has a place in today’s modern world.

How to Build a Wind Mill

Monday, December 14th, 2009

With the search on for alternative power sources, Build a Wind Millsome individuals are starting to build a wind mill around their homes. If you want to make one, there are several things you need to consider.

Required Tools and Materials

Several pieces of lumber or concrete
Metal or plastic tubing
Turbine
Rotor
Windmill blades
Electrical wiring
Battery
Transformer
Hammer, saw, nails and drill

Step 1

Check with the authorities if you need special permits to make the windmill. If you want one that provides substantial power, you’ll need several thousand sq ft of land. The land needs to have as few trees as possible. You also need to raise the structure about 30 feet from the ground.

You also need to figure your budget. When you get the permit, decide how large the wind mill will be so you can get the right supplies. Make a sketch design of the wind mill to help you out.

Step 2

Start to build a wind mill by laying down the base. First the ground has to be level. The wind mill base is either round or square. For the actual building you can use concrete or lumber. If using concrete, you should allow the mixture to dry before proceeding. If using wood, get the strongest type you can afford.

Step 3

When the base is set, you can make the tower. You can use tubing or guide wires. If using tubing, you should utilize metal.

Step 4

After making the tower, add the turbine and the rotor. Connect the wires and the blades at the topmost section of the tower. Take the electrical wire. Put the wire in the pipe.

Proceed to build a wind mill by connecting the turbine to the wire’s endpoint. Take the other end of the wire. Link it to the battery unit. Take a few more electrical wires. Join these from the battery then to the transformer.

Step 5

Raise the tower. Secure the tubing or the wires on the tower. Note: this is where the blades, turbine and rotor are connected to.

Step 6

Hook the transformer to your house and test the wind mill.

How to Make Solar Powered Wind Mills

The required tools and materials are the same as the ones mentioned earlier. However you need to add solar panels and a generator.

Step 1

Build a wind mill base in the same manner you did earlier. Be certain the tower is high enough so the blades don’t come into contact with other objects near the ground.

Step 2

Put the solar panels on the roof where they’ll get maximum heat.

Step 3

Get the turbine and link it to the tower. Now link the wind mill to your generator. This will transform the wind into electricity. You can use an alternator instead of a generator if you wish.

Step 4

The final step is to wire the battery, the panels and the generator to the house’s electric system.

There are many ways to build a wind mill. But regardless of which style you choose, be sure to assess the zoning regulations in you area.

How to Build a Sauna

Saturday, December 12th, 2009

There are different ways to build a sauna. Build a SaunaThe following is for the outdoor type. Start by procuring all the necessary equipment.

Required Tools and Materials

Blueprints
Hand saw
Hammer
Nail gun
Insulation
Sauna heater (you can choose from electric, gas or wood)
Wood lumber (for the floor and outer walls, use oak; for the floor and inner walls, use cider)

Step 1

Use a computer program or sketch paper to draw the sauna. Decide how big you want it to be (i.e. x ft long by x ft wide). When you have the figures ready, get the necessary lumber boards. The average lumber is 2 x 4 x 8 ft long. The average plank board is 18” wide x 2” thick x 96” long.

Step 2

To build a sauna, begin by cutting the lumber according to the dimensions you set. Begin with the flooring. Nail four 2 x 4s to create the frame. Cut several more 2 x 4s to be used as support. Space each one regularly. For the flooring, nail as many wood planks as required by the sauna you drew up.

Step 3

Cut four other 2 x 4s to make a frame for the wall. Refer to your blueprint to get an idea of how many supporting 2 x 4s are needed. Use the wood planks to make the walls. Use the nail gun to put the walls in place.

Cut the wood planks to make the outer walls. When you build a sauna, these outer walls need to be fastened on the flooring. Use the nail gun to accomplish this task.

Step 4

Install the insulation; 15-inch wide fiberglass insulation batts are ideal. The insulation R rating for the sauna walls should be 13. For the ceiling it’s 22 to 26. Put the insulation in the spaces made by the lumber used to make the frame. Fasten the cedar board over the insulation. Put the exhaust vent on the other end.

Step 5

Create the roof. Cut the wood planks to the proper length. You can create the frames and supports in the manner described earlier. Nail it to the walls.

Step 6

Use some of the remaining wood to build a sauna bench (or benches). After building, nail it to the sauna walls.

Step 7

Install the sauna heater. If you’re going to use wood, allow 90 minutes to pass before the place is heated. You can also use gas, but be sure to test for carbon monoxide. For electric heaters, 1 kilowatt is needed per 45 cubic feet.

Use 100 volt heaters for small saunas. Use 200 volts for large saunas. You’ll also need to install an intake and exhaust vent for good airflow. The intake vent should be placed nearer the floor (close to the heater).

Tips and Warnings

Do not install the electric heater unless you know how to handle electrical components.
 
That’s all it takes to build a sauna. When everything is set up, you can start using it.

How to Build a Solar Panel

Friday, December 11th, 2009

There are many ways to build a solar panel. Build a Solar PanelThis is one of the simplest and will give you an idea of how it actually works.

Required Tools and Materials

Copper sheeting
2 tbsp of salt
Electric stove or hot plate
Micro-ammeter (can detect below 50 microamperes)
Sandpaper
2 alligator clip leads
Water
Wire cutter
Plastic bottle
Sheet metal shears

Step 1

Slice two pieces of copper sheeting. Make each one as big as the stove. Take one copper sheet and wash it. Use the sandpaper to remove any corrosion. Put the copper sheet on the stove burner. Turn on the burner and put the heat settings to the maximum level.

Step 2

The copper will turn black as it oxidizes. To build a solar panel successfully, the copper sheet needs to be left at the stove for 40 minutes. By this time it will be covered with black material. Turn off the burner. Allow the copper to cool down for half an hour.

Step 3

Take the copper sheeting. Wash it under running water. Take out the oxidized coating. Only remove what can be taken off. Don’t scrub too vigorously; you might break the copper.

Step 4

Cut the top part of the bottle so it resembles a bucket. Get the copper you did not wash. Bend it a little so it conforms to the shape of the bottle. You’ll need to put this copper in the bottle. To build a solar panel, you need to put the burned copper in the bottle too. Do not allow the two materials to make contact.

Step 5

Link an alligator clip lead onto each copper. Link the alligator clip attached to the non-blackened copper to the positive terminal of the micro-ammeter. Set the alligator clip lead on the blackened copper to the micro-ameter’s negative terminal.

Step 6

Pour hot water into several cups. Add salt into each cup. Stir until the salt dissipates completely. Carefully pour the liquid into the bottle. Make sure the alligator clip leads do not get wet. Make sure that an inch of the copper materials are over the water line.

Step 7

Look at the needle of the micro-ammeter. You will see a charge appear. After you build a solar panel, it’s time to put it to a test. Take it out into the sun. Watch how the charge goes up. The reason is that the apparatus takes the sun’s energy and transforms it into electricity.

Tips and Warnings

Although the device is simple, it shows you the basic principles behind even the largest solar panels. You can use the concepts here to make larger solar panels.

There are many solar panel designs available. Look at various designs to get some ideas as well. Different appliances will require bigger solar panels. Do some research so you can figure out how large a solar panel you need to power your house.

It takes a bit of effort to build a solar panel. However it opens the doors to a whole new energy source and could make a difference down the road.

How to Build a Retaining Wall

Friday, December 11th, 2009

You don’t need to be a master craftsman orBuild a Retaining Wall carpenter to build a retaining wall. As long as you have the tools and have some plans, you’ll be able to make one without too much trouble.

Required Tools and Materials

Building materials (stones, bricks or cement blocks)
Rake
Mallet
Tape measure
Gravel
Stone chisel (if you’re going to use stones)
Shovel
Hosepipe
String
Concrete mixture
Mortar

Step 1

Take out any plants or pots in the area. Remove any rocks and grass. If you haven’t done it already, use the tape measure / string to determine the wall’s size. Dig a hole 12” deep. The height of the wall needs to be half the base.

If you don’t have a measuring tape, use the hosepipe instead to gauge the dimensions. Before you build a retaining wall, remove some of the soil; be careful you don’t dig too much and weaken the foundation.

Step 2

When digging is finished, add a layer of gravel. This will be the drainage of the wall.

Step 3

Now you can start piling up the stones. If you’re using bricks, overlap them for additional strength. Put mortar in between the gaps. If you’re using interlocking blocks, insert gravel between the spaces.

You can use a mallet to help you with the arrangement. If you’re going to use cement blocks, pour cement mix when you get to the final layer. You can add some plants on top of the wall.

Tips and Warnings

You can build a retaining wall in a terrace like manner. You can make each row 3 ft high. You can make as many as needed. This terrace like structure is best suited for deep areas.

Check city ordinances for any restrictions on the height / length of retaining walls. If the wall is small, you can probably finish the task in a day. If it’s big, schedule breaks so you don’t get tired.

Notes on Using Natural Stones

If you’re going to use stones, make sure to get the right type and amount. To get the right amount, multiply the height by the length of the wall. Add a few more stones to the figure you come up with so you’ve got some reserves.

When you start digging, make it slightly wider than the stone you’re going to put in. You can make a hole about 6” deep if you build a retaining wall using stones. You’ll want to use a level to keep the hole even. You can add the layers of stone now. Hammer the stones to make sure they’re all level.

For each side and every other row, the stone needs to be cut in half. Do this by scoring the stone’s sides and hitting it with a hammer. Set these stones in their proper location Add the other stones to complete the layer. Repeat the process until you get the height you want. Finally, shovel some dirt around the trenches.

Whatever materials you use to build a retaining wall, the planning stage is critical. Make sure you know the exact dimensions so you work more precisely.

How to Build a Closet

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

If there is too much clutter in your roomBuild a Closet, you should consider building a closet. However there are several things you need to assess before the construction begins.

Required Tools and Materials

Nails
Level
Hammer
Wood
Measuring Tape
Saw
Pencils
Stud finder
Drill
Wire cutter

Step 1

Decide if you’re going to make the closet from scratch or expand the existing one. If you’re going to start from the ground up, make a detailed drawing. If you’re just going to expand it, you can just tear down the walls.

If there are existing electrical outlets, you should fix it before moving on. At this point, you should jot down the dimensions of the closet.

Step 2

Before you start building a closet, decide how many shelves are going to be installed. Shelves can be either vertical or horizontal; they also come in varying sizes. You can buy or make these shelves.

Step 3

After determining the closet dimensions, get the needed materials. Refer to your design so you can cut the wood pieces to the right length. If necessary, mark the wood pieces.

Step 4

Before putting in the wood boards, use the stud finder to locate the studs. Set the organizer on the wall stud. Given a choice, use vertical studs; they are more flexible than the horizontal studs.

Step 5

To start building a closet, refer to your sketch design. If you tore down the walls, cut the wood to the appropriate lengths. Set them in place. Now you can add the rails and the shelves.

If you are making the shelves yourself, cut the wood boards to the size you need. Nail the boards together and put it in the closet. You can screw the boards if you want.

Step 6

If you used wood, you can start painting it. Add as many coats as you like. Let it dry. You can also use metal components instead of wood. You can use a steel attachment system with a wood shelf.

Tips and Warnings

Here are some suggestions worth remembering when building a closet. Always follow the measurements you set down. If you are off even by a few inches, chances are the wood pieces won’t fit. Don’t just stack shelves here and there.

Before you start building, you should have an idea of what you’re going to put there. This will help you organize the shelves, shoe trays and other sections more effectively.

Put only the appropriate materials in the appropriate shelves. That is, lightweight objects should be put on light shelves only. By giving some thought to the arrangement process, you’ll have an easier time putting everything together.

Wear safety goggles when cutting wood. Do not work in cramped spaces. When putting in the walls, make sure to avoid hitting electrical outlets. You might need some assistants if you’re going to construct the closet from the ground up.

Remember that you are building a closet to organize your stuff. So try to keep the design as simple and practical as possible.

How to Build a Septic Tank

Monday, December 7th, 2009

For residential areas without a street sewer system for septic waste disposalBuild a Septic Tank, local authorities require the construction of a septic tank per household. To construct one’s own, or to see if work being done to build a septic tank is correct, here are steps on how to build a septic tank.

Excavation

Excavate the earth where the vault is planned to be placed. It is often located in the backyard or at the garage—or where it is nearest to the underground street sewer. The usual dimensions for a septic vault are 1.0 (width) x 1.5 or 2 (length) meters with a height of 1.20 meters. Among the main things in how to build a septic tank is having enough volume capacity for a tank to contain and process the waste disposal of a household. For 8 to 12 persons in a house, the dimensions above are adequate.

Foundations and Floor Pavement

Prepare additional excavations of 0.40 meters for width and 0.20 meters for thickness at the sides of the vault. This is for pouring the concrete foundation. Place 10 mm. longitudinal and cross rigged bars to reinforce the concrete foundation. Tie them together with GI tie wires. Also place 10 mm. rig bars on the floor pavement at 0.50 meters on center spacing. Pour concrete on the pavement. Foundation strength is vital when dealing with how to build a septic tank. When improperly constructing a septic vault, water pressure and wear and tear will easily destroy it in a few months.

CHB Walls for Two Chambers

Part the vault into two chambers: the digestive and the leaching chambers. The digestive should have a fourth of the entire vault area and should receive the main inlet pipe. The leaching chamber should occupy ¾ of the vault volume. It receives water from the digestive chamber and releases it gradually to the underground sewer. The hollow block (CHB) walls of both chambers should be reinforced with horizontal and vertical 10 mm. rigged bars. Each hollow block cell should be filled with reinforced concrete. The inner faces of the walls should be applied well with cement plaster. This is how to build a septic tank sturdily that would last a long time.

Provide a hand hole directly above each inlet—one at the head of the digestive chamber, another at the dividing wall, and one on the outlet at the tail end of the leaching chamber. Provide a man hole each chamber.

Concrete Covering

Finally, when constructing a septic vault, provide a reinforced concrete pavement to cover the whole vault with. The hand and man hole covers are integrated with this. Use 10 mm. rigged bars as extra reinforcements.

How to Build a Shower Pan

Monday, December 7th, 2009

It’s important you build a shower pan correctly. Build a Shower PanUnless this is done, it could lead to all sorts of problems. Start by getting the needed supplies.

Required Tools and Materials

Drain base
Roofing felt
Rubber sealant
Pea gravel
Caulking and caulking gun
Chicken wire (or wire lath)
Mortar mix
Concrete finishing trowel
Membrane (waterproof)
Backer board
Float strips
Staples
Clamping ring
Plumbing tools

Step 1

First make sure the drain isn’t clogged. Get a clamping ring drain. Set the supporting flange of the drain at the plywood subflooring.

Step 2

Use the mortar mix to make a sloped floor. The minimum slope for the subfloor is ¼” for every foot. Secure ¾ x ¾” float strips around its perimeter. These will be your guides as you build a shower pan.

Step 3

Put the clamping ring on the subfloor. Fasten ¾” float strips at the shower floor edges. Apply 15 lb roofing felt. Put on the wire lath with staples.

Step 4

Trowel the mortar. You can use wood float to pack the mortar in. Always use latex additive for the mortar mix; water is insufficient. Allow this to dry overnight.

Step 5

You should use chlorinated polyethylene sheet membrane when it comes to the shower pan liners. Put blocking in the midst of the studs at the pan’s perimeter. The blocking needs to be at least an inch over the pan’s upturned sides. When you build a shower pan, the fasteners must be flush. Set the sides according to the local building codes in your area.

Step 6

Lay out the membrane. Slice it to the right size. Trial fit it on the floor. If it’s all right, take out the membrane. Fasten the membrane clamping on the drain’s lower portion. Put a bit of rubber sealant at the drain flange. Put the membrane in place. Crease the extra material and staple it on the wall. Put some sealant at the folds to keep it in place.

Step 7

Put the prefabricated dam corner at the point where the shower curb meets the membrane. As you build a shower pan, put a couple of 1/8” beads (half an inch spaced out) of sealant on the membrane. Use the trowel to set the dam onto the sealant.

Set the fasteners on the upturned edges. Slice the bolt heads projecting from the drain. Firm the membrane over the bolts. Secure the bolts and make a hole in the membrane.

Step 8

Thread the drain screen in the clamping ring. Put pea gravel at the drain base. Float 50% of the deck mud. Put down some reinforced wire and put the other half of the deck mud on it. 16/16 gauge 2 x 2” mesh will be just fine. You can also use 16/13 11/2 x 2” or 13/13 gauge 3 x 3” meshes. Now float it on the slope.

The final step to build a shower pan is to notch the wood float’s front edge. This will allow it to ride at the bottom part of the wall.

How to Build a Porch

Monday, December 7th, 2009

While it’s true that trying to build a porch takesBuild a Porch time, it is perfectly doable. You just need to have the right equipment.

Required Tools and Materials

Hammer
2 x 10 lumber boards
Plywood boards
Wood glue
Pencil
Chalk
Staple gun
Windows screening
Carpet
Box of nails
Roofing shingles
Level
Stud finder
Ladder
Scissors

Step 1

Connect the ledger board to the back of your house (from the 2 x 10 lumber). Mark the spot with a chalk. Use the level to make sure the ledger is aligned properly. Nail the board in place.

Step 2

Put 2 x 10 joists on both sides of the board. Put wood glue on the part where the wood meets up. Nail them. As you build a porch, mark the joist on the ledger every 1 ft 4 inches. Hammer the 2 x 10 lumbers on these spots. Put glue where the boards join up.

Step 3

Put in a 2 x 10 ledger board out front. Hammer and glue it. Use two nails to link the front ledger board. Nail them to joists spaced by 16 inches.

Step 4

Put plywood boards on the floor. You can utilize the stud finder when hammering in the boards.

Step 5

To build the walls, cut four 2 x 10s and make a frame. Mark a spot every 16 inches on the inside of the bottom and top section. Put joists here. Nail and glue them.

Repeat this for the other walls. Continue to build a porch by slicing a few more wood from the 2 x 10s. Put these halfway up the joist. Hammer and glue them in a horizontal manner.

Step 6

Slice a couple of 2 x 10s diagonally on both sides. Set them on the front wall so they form a triangle. Put a 2 x 10 at the triangle’s top. Put in 2 x 10 joists on both sides. They should be placed every 16 inches. Cut the joists in an angular manner.

Step 7

Put the front wall up. Hammer the roof’s top beam on the house. Nail the base on the floorboards. Raise the side walls. Hammer the roof joists on the frame’s top section. As you build a porch’s side wall, using the stud finder when hammering on the roof is recommended.

Step 8

Get the roofing shingles. Install and hammer them, commencing from the bottom and going up. Allow two to four inches of overlap. Get the window screen dimensions. Slice the frame section to the appropriate size. Put them in place with the staple gun. Paint and stain as you wish. Get the carpet. Put it on the floor.

Tips and Warnings

You can put on some stained glass or some wiring. However, you should not attempt this unless you know how to install them. Hire the services of a qualified electrician to avoid any accidents.

You’ll be able to build a porch more quickly if you have some assistants. When it’s finished, you can all grab a drink and relax.

How to Build an Outhouse

Sunday, November 29th, 2009

Knowing how to build an outhouse will give you insights as toBuild an Outhouse how people manage without a toilet. Under certain situations, it might even come in handy.

Required Tools and Materials

Hammer
Concrete or wood
Nails
Screws
Shovel
Tape measure
Saw
Marker
Hinges and locks (for door; optional)

Where to Make the Outhouse

First of all the outhouse needs to be in a private spot. The site must also be at least 100 yards (300 feet) away from any water source. The 100 yard rule is also applicable for rivers, lakes and other running water. When you find the site, remove any grass, debris etc.

Create the Pit

To build an outhouse, start by digging a hole. Use the tape measure to mark the entire area. The hole should be at least 5 ft deep. The width should be at least at least 4 inches. The sides should be uniform.

Make the Flooring

You can use either wood or concrete (here wood will be used). The hole in the wood should be as large or a little bigger than the hole you dug up. Draw lines around the area you are going to cut. Create the hole with the saw. Put the wood over the hole. The same process can be used for the concrete.

Create a Cover for the Outhouse

Those who build an outhouse often make a cover as well. To do this, get the wood boards. The wood board should be big enough to cover the hole. After using the outhouse, the cover should be put on. This will reduce the smell. Alternatively, roll roofing can be used instead. If you don’t want to build a cover, you should cover the hole with dirt.

Making Walls and a Roof

For additional privacy, walls can be constructed. Slice four wood boards and put them around the pit. A single large wood board can be used for the roof. Nail the walls and roof together.

You can also make a door from the lumber. Make sure you have locks, hinges and screws so the door can be installed. If you are going to build an outhouse on a raised surface, steps will be necessary. Bricks or leveled cement blocks can be used for this purpose.

Tips and Warnings

You can paint the outhouse after construction is finished. Do not use the structure until the paint has dried. If you aren’t going to make any walls or roof, you need to use the wood cover in case it rains.

You should only dig pits in your property. Not only should the outhouse be far from water sources; it should also be at least a 100 yards from publicly accessible areas. Make sure dogs and other animals don’t get near the site. Otherwise, they will dig the hole and make a mess.

It’s very easy to build an outhouse. At its most basic, you can just dig a hole in the ground. But as you can see, you can make it more accommodating and comfortable to use.