Ceramic tile can be used to create beautiful, elegant and classy floors. However, this particular kind of material is prone to damage especially when the floor is not maintained properly. Some of the common problems include cracking, discoloration and other types of damages. It is easier to solve these problems by learning how to fix damaged floor ceramic tiles.

Materials Needed

For you to complete this moderate task, you need to bring in a reliable adhesive, work gloves and grout sealer. Aside from these, you must also have a putty knife or notched trowel, tile grout and large sponge. In addition, bring in screws or nails, a chisel and an awl. Lastly, do not forget to bring safety glasses and a hammer.

Steps

Go to the nearest home improvement or flooring supply center and then choose the right kind of tiles to match the rest of the tiles on your floor. To make things easier, you can bring one of the damaged tiles and then show it to the store attendant for assistance. While at the store, be sure to buy premixed grout and adhesive to make your job easier later on.

Get the chisel or awl and then use it to remove old grout that is holding the damage tile. Be careful when doing this in order not to cause damage to the tiles in the surrounding areas. Use it to chip out and remove the old damaged tile as well. Do it slowly, preferably one piece at a time. For this, you have to pound the chisel slowly with a hammer until the damaged tile is completely removed.

It is important to scrape off the old grout and adhesive. Be patient in doing this as it may take quite a while to finish. If the subsurface is smooth and clean, the better the newly installed tile will remain in place. Before putting the new tile, the floor beneath it must be firm, solid and structurally sound. In case it is loose, you can make it firm by driving nails or screws right through it.

Get the putty knife or notched trowel and then use it to apply the adhesive at the back of the new tile. Push it tightly in place. Wait for it to dry before moving on to the other tiles. Put grout in the surrounding areas of every tile.

Smooth out the joints by removing excess grout with the help of a wet sponge. Leave the grout untouched for about 15 minutes. Do this to every damaged tile. Wait for them to dry up for about 24 hours. Apply a clear waterproof sealer on the grout to prevent rot, mildew and staining from developing.

Do you have problems with your old bathroom sink? Do you think that your sink is outdated? Are you interested in fixing and improving the appearance of your sink but you do not have enough money to pay for the serviceman? It is best if you learn how to fix an old bathroom sink easily and effectively.

Procedures

If you like your sink to have a newer look, you can begin with replacing the faucet and the fittings. Choose a faucet that will match the color of your sink and the bathroom. It is also beneficial to purchase a faucet with an aerated spout. If the color of your sink is white and you want to clean it, just pour bleach on the sink and let it stand for several minutes.

Instead of rinsing it with water, just lay paper towels on the sink. If there are cracks on the sink, then you can paint the cracked areas with white. If you want to change the color of the sink, you need to reglaze or repaint it. Choose the color that will match with the color of the bathroom. After repainting the sink, apply gel coat to make the sink shinier and more attractive. For best results, sand the sink after the gel coat dries up.

Cleaning an Old Bathroom Sink

To clean the sink, you need a bucket of soap and water, a sponge, paper towels, chlorine bleach and plastic sheeting. In addition to these materials, you should have medium grit sandpaper, a silicone digester, a putty knife, drop cloths, a tile refinishing paint, primer paint, an acrylic urethane resin and a polymer resin.

Use the sponge and the soapy water to wash the sink. To clean the cracks, use a bristle brush and wipe it with paper towels. Remove rust stains by layering paper towels on the sink. Pour the bleach directly on the towels. Let the towels stay on the sink for three to five hours. Sand the sink before you paint it. Wash it with soapy water. Rinse with clean water.

Dry the sink before you paint it. If your sink is made from porcelain, spray 12 coats of paint on the sink. Wait for eight to 10 hours before coat it with polymer resin. If you cannot find polymer resin, you can use polyurethane paint instead. Seal it with a gel coat to make it shinier. Sand the edges of the sink to make it more attractive.

The drain is one of the most important parts of the bathroom, specifically in the shower area where water flows on a regular basis. This artificial exit point keeps the surface of the shower area free from any buildup of water, thus keeping it safe for people to use. Make your home a more convenient place to live in by learning how to install a tile shower drain inside the bathroom area.

Materials Needed

Only a few materials are needed before anyone can start with this easy task. These include a PVC cement preparation, PVC cement and a new shower drain. Aside from these items, you also need a drill, a chisel and a hammer at some point during the process of installing the shower drain.

Steps

First, buy a shower drain that will perfectly fit the current system of plumbing. To do this, you need to bring the old drain with you to any nearby hardware store. Before replacing the old drain, you should check first for pipes that are broken or cracked. If black pipe is used in the current system, try to buy rubber adaptors.

Slowly remove the tiles in the area where you wish to put the new drain. Get a chisel and a hammer and then use it to chip off and crack each tile that needs to be removed. Do this slowly so as not to destroy the surrounding tiles. Likewise, you need to have extra tiles with the same design as the rest of the other tiles on the floor of the shower area.

After removing all the tiles necessary to install the drain, get the drill and then use it to create a hole. Be sure to find a spot that is aligned with the current plumbing. When the right size of hole is made, try to smooth out all the rough and uneven edges using sandpaper. By doing this, you are guaranteed that there is no leak later on.

Apply the purple primer into the parts that need to be joined. Wait for about 20 seconds after applying the PVC prep and then put PVC cement on the new drain and the current plumbing. When connecting PVC to a black pipe or rubber pipe, the use of cement glue is necessary.

After putting the drain in place, top it with the drain cap and then put some plumbers caulk. Screw the drain cap tightly in place. When the glue and caulk dry up, try to check if the newly installed drain is working just fine. In case problems occur, make the necessary adjustments accordingly.

How you go about repairing hot tubs depends on the problem. Repair a Hot TubThe following are some of the most common issues with hot tubs and how you can fix them.

Removing Fiberglass Cracks

Required Tools and Materials

Cleaning rags
Fiberglass resin
Fiberglass hardener
Fiberglass cloth
Gel coat
Paint brush
Gloves
Marine plastic filler
Plastic wrap
Coarse sandpaper (grit 80)
Wet/dry sandpaper (grit 320, 220 and 400)
Colorant

Step 1

Begin by sanding the damaged area with the rough sandpaper. Commence sanding from the crack’s edge. Keep sanding up to a couple of inches away from the affected area.

Step 2

Slice the fiberglass cloth into 3 parts. The first should be a bit smaller than the crack; the second and third should be progressively smaller than the first patch.

Step 3

Before you start repairing hot tubs, mix the fiberglass resin with the hardener. Follow the instructions for the needed amounts. Put the smallest patch in the mixture.

After the resin saturates the cloth, place the cloth on the crack. Repeat the process for the other two patches, from the smallest to the biggest. Let them dry overnight.

Step 4

Get the hardened patch and sand it with the rough sandpaper. Remove any residues but do not sand the fiberglass tub surface around it. Now apply the marine plastic filler on the sanded part. Allow it to dry for at least half an hour.

Step 5

Sand the marine filler.

Step 6

Color the gel coat so it will match your tub. Put the gel coat on the affected area. Use a paint brush to do it. When repairing hot tubs put enough gel so it is 1/8” thick.

Step 7

Put the plastic wrap on the entire area. Give it time to dry (overnight should be enough).

Step 8

Use the 220 sandpaper on the gel coated area. Keep sanding until everything blends in.

No Power and GFCI Problems

Start by looking at the circuit breaker. You can check the breaker status by flipping it. Next, check the fuse. In particular look at the GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) if it is set. If the fuse is defective, get another one. A continuously blowing fuse is indicative of wiring issues.

Anyone repairing hot tubs should never fail to look at the heater.

If there are still problems with the GFCI, check out the heater. Corrosion could lead to GFCI problems as will burns. A busted heater will short out. This in turn will affect the GFCI. Get a new heater if the old is defective.

Tips and Warnings

Take all the necessary precautions when fixing electrical problems. Ensure the power is turned off before making any repairs. Do not replace the fuse, heater or any other component unless you know how to. Improper installation could make things worse. Double check all the wirings before you turn on the tub.
 
The key to remember when repairing hot tubs is that a proper assessment of the situation is necessary. This will allow you to take the right course of action.

A damaged or clogged septic vault is something that needs immediate attention. It cannot be set aside for fixing another day. Thus, it is practical to know how to fix septic tank problems to provide remedies for these messy and smelly problems quickly. Here are some tips on repairing septic tanks.

Clean Out

Septic vaults have clean outs. These are openings for checking clogs in the pipes, both inlets and outlets, inside the vault. A clean out is covered with a threaded lead. It is often located near the main entry of waste water from a house or building. If a water closet, lavatory, or sewer pipe is clogged. It may be septic vault trouble. The first step on how to fix septic tank problems is checking the clean out.

Clearing a Clogged Inlet through the Clean Out

Among common tips on repairing septic tanks is to see if the clean out is filled with water. If the clean out cover spurts out messy water as it is being opened, there is clogging at the main inlet. After opening the lead cover, use a long and thin metal rod or rigged bar to clear out the clog. Insert a portion of the length of the rod or bar (about 3 to 5 feet) into the clean out and through the main pipe connected to the plumbing system of the building or house. Thrust the rod in and out several times. Pour water into the lavatory or flush the toilet to see if the clog has been cleared.

Opening the Hand Holes

If the clean-out trick does not work, it’s time to open the hand holes. It’s important to know the function of hand holes when dealing with how to fix septic tank problems. Hand holes are placed directly above inlet and outlet pipes inside the septic tank. The openings of these holes are visible from the outside—on the septic vault pavement. They are often equipped with small steel handles for opening. Just lift these handles to open the concrete covers. Then, with a rubberized gloved hand, insert the hand into the holes, one hole at a time. Grope for clogging materials the block the inlet and outlets inside the vault. This is among simple tips on repairing septic tanks. The problem is usually solved here.

Opening the Man Holes

If the hand-hole trick does not work, it’s time for the last resort remedy—opening the man holes. This is among surefire remedies on how to fix septic tank problems. Vaults have two chambers: the digestive and the leaching. Each has a man hole directly above them. The concrete man-hole covers are visible on the outer pavement of the tank. Just lift these covers and go inside each chamber to check troubles and repair them directly.

As long as you have the following equipment, you’ll be able to build a shower base. Have the following paraphernalia by your side before you begin.

Required Tools and Materials

Lumber
Drain
Stapler
Mortar
Roofing felt
Wire mesh
Level
Shower pan liner
Trowel
Deck mud (no additive mortar)
Plastic sheeting
Wonder board (backer board)

Step 1

For the shower wood frame, cut 3×4” plywood and put them over 2 x 10 joists. You can also use the 2 x 10 between the walls. For the front curb, set the 2 x 4s flat. If it’s a brick wall, nail a 1 x 10 on the sheeting.

Step 2

Continue to build a shower base by putting the roofing belt at the bottom. This will afford slippage between the tile and wood. It also lets the mortar dry.

Step 3

Staple the wire mesh on the plywood. Put the bottom flange at the drain assembly.

Step 4

Combine the latex additive with the mortar for the pre-sloped base for the liner. Put down a shower bed (1 ¼” farthest and tapering it 3/8” thick at the drain). The highest point will depend on the size of your shower. Pack the mortar and level it. Eliminate any bumps on it.

Step 5

Allow 24 hours to pass before you continue to build a shower base. Fold the corners. Carefully slice the hole for the drain. Seal between the liner and the flange.

Step 6

Get the wire mesh and cover both sides. Put the wire mesh on the top curb also. Staple only on the outside sections. Line the walls using the cement board. To prevent wicking, leave a gap just above the floor of the pan.

Step 7

Put the drain top and its screws onto the flange. Utilize spacers so the drain is raised an inch for the mud. It also needs to be 1/8” raised for the tile. Put the deck mud on the top of the pan. Put some on the tile base too. Again, make sure there are no rough / bump spots when you build a shower base. Level it.

The whole curb should be covered as well. Put ½” on the outside and 1” on top. Slope the top a bit into the shower. Depending on the tile, you may choose to thicken the sides. Use a level to make sure everything is uniform.

Tips and Warnings

Measure the dimensions of your bathroom before starting. This will allow you to get the right amount of materials. Take your time when making the shower base. Make sure you mix the mortar and latex additive thoroughly.

Take careful note of the measurements so you don’t make mistakes. Again, do not use deck mud with any additive mortar; it will affect the stability of the entire structure. As for the wood, get the best that you can afford.

By getting the right type of materials, you’ll be able to build a shower base with ease. All it takes is patience and perseverance.

The toilet bowl is one of the most important features inside the bathroom. However, this fixture can experience different kinds of problems, one of the most common of which is a running toilet. This problem is not only a waste of water but a waste of money as well. Just imagine how much is added to your water bill with all the water flowing freely. To help solve this kind of problem, it is good to learn how to fix a running toilet.

Materials Needed

In case you are planning to fix a running toilet, you need three materials to get the job done. This moderately easy task requires a screwdriver set, plungers and toilet repair parts. Once you have these things, you can start right away and prevent the water as well as your money from going into waste.

Steps

Before you can fix anything, you need to investigate first the real cause of the problem. For this bathroom fixture, take off the lid of the toilet tank. Remove it from harm’s way. Check the ball clock, which is a valve connected to the float. In case you hear or notice water from this part, you must replace or clean it.

Aside from this, try to check is the tank flap is still working well. Pull up your sleeves and then try to reach the bottom part of the tank. Press down its edges. In case the water stops from running, it only shows that the flap is not working properly anymore.

Once you have identified the real cause of the problem, turn off the supply of water. After that, flush the water inside the tank to make your job easier. Buy all the materials you need to accomplish this task.

To replace the tank flap, remove all the attachments first. Place and attach the new tank flap. Turn the water supply on. Check if the water is no longer running freely and then put the lid back on.

In case the ball-clock diaphragm is the problem, replace it by snapping off its cover. Get the screwdriver and then unscrew the top plate. Once you see the rubber diaphragm, slowly remove it. Remember which side of it is up and then analyze its condition. Sometimes, hard-water deposits like rust or gravel can cause a leak. Rinse it using the water from tank.

On the other hand, the leak can also be caused by a worn-out or damaged ball-clock. In case this is the cause of the problem, remove it right away and then replace it with a new one. Change the top plate as well. Put the screws back on. Turn on the supply of water and then check if there is no more leak.

It’s important you build a shower pan correctly. Unless this is done, it could lead to all sorts of problems. Start by getting the needed supplies.

Required Tools and Materials

Drain base
Roofing felt
Rubber sealant
Pea gravel
Caulking and caulking gun
Chicken wire (or wire lath)
Mortar mix
Concrete finishing trowel
Membrane (waterproof)
Backer board
Float strips
Staples
Clamping ring
Plumbing tools

Step 1

First make sure the drain isn’t clogged. Get a clamping ring drain. Set the supporting flange of the drain at the plywood subflooring.

Step 2

Use the mortar mix to make a sloped floor. The minimum slope for the subfloor is ¼” for every foot. Secure ¾ x ¾” float strips around its perimeter. These will be your guides as you build a shower pan.

Step 3

Put the clamping ring on the subfloor. Fasten ¾” float strips at the shower floor edges. Apply 15 lb roofing felt. Put on the wire lath with staples.

Step 4

Trowel the mortar. You can use wood float to pack the mortar in. Always use latex additive for the mortar mix; water is insufficient. Allow this to dry overnight.

Step 5

You should use chlorinated polyethylene sheet membrane when it comes to the shower pan liners. Put blocking in the midst of the studs at the pan’s perimeter. The blocking needs to be at least an inch over the pan’s upturned sides. When you build a shower pan, the fasteners must be flush. Set the sides according to the local building codes in your area.

Step 6

Lay out the membrane. Slice it to the right size. Trial fit it on the floor. If it’s all right, take out the membrane. Fasten the membrane clamping on the drain’s lower portion. Put a bit of rubber sealant at the drain flange. Put the membrane in place. Crease the extra material and staple it on the wall. Put some sealant at the folds to keep it in place.

Step 7

Put the prefabricated dam corner at the point where the shower curb meets the membrane. As you build a shower pan, put a couple of 1/8” beads (half an inch spaced out) of sealant on the membrane. Use the trowel to set the dam onto the sealant.

Set the fasteners on the upturned edges. Slice the bolt heads projecting from the drain. Firm the membrane over the bolts. Secure the bolts and make a hole in the membrane.

Step 8

Thread the drain screen in the clamping ring. Put pea gravel at the drain base. Float 50% of the deck mud. Put down some reinforced wire and put the other half of the deck mud on it. 16/16 gauge 2 x 2” mesh will be just fine. You can also use 16/13 11/2 x 2” or 13/13 gauge 3 x 3” meshes. Now float it on the slope.

The final step to build a shower pan is to notch the wood float’s front edge. This will allow it to ride at the bottom part of the wall.

A vessel sink is an elegant addition to an already beautiful kitchen. In fact, even a plain old ordinary kitchen will look quite modern if you have one installed. A common concern with vessel sinks is the drain installation. It might require some effort to install one than what you might think or expect. Nevertheless, vessel sinks remain today as a popular choice among many homemakers for their kitchens and bathrooms. We’ll walk you through the vessel sink drain installation.

Needed Tools and Materials

You’ll need the following in order to install a vessel sink drain. You’ll need to bring out your drill, plumbers’ tape, and silicon adhesives. You’ll also need the vessel sink along with its faucet, traps, and the drain.

Reminders when Installing the Vessel Sink

Among the first things you should consider is the height of your would be sink. Consider the height of the people who are going to use it. You don’t want taller people stooping down or kids propping up and struggling to reach it. Remember that you’ll have to add about 30 inches to your countertop when you install a vessel sink.

When you install the sink, make sure to add enough clearance between sink and faucet. Stick to the specifications provided by its manufacturer. Check if you have not interchanged the hot water tube for the cold water one. When you drill holes on your countertop make sure to give enough clearance for your drain assembly as well.

Installing the Vessel Sink Drain

After mounting your vessel sink and faucet you’re now ready to install the drain. You need to install the drain pipe from the floor or wall and attach it to your sink’s drain. You may very well replace the pipe fittings if you find them damaged or to accommodate this new installation.

To install the vessel sink drain, grab your sink’s drain and slip it into the drain pipe coming from the wall or floor. Affix it by tightening the nut located on the trap fitting. Most nuts on such fittings are made of plastic though you will no doubt be able to find ones that are made of metal. Use pipe cement or glue to attach both ends together.

If ever you find that the drain pipe isn’t long enough, use an extension pipe or coupler. Don’t forget the traps when you assemble the pipes. Some types of vessel sink drains have a bottom pipe which should be unscrewed from the rest of the assembly. This piece of the drain is attached from underneath your counter.

Unscrew the lock nut and remove the lower half of the vessel sink drain including its rubber gasket. Insert the top half from above the counter and connect it to the one that goes to the bottom. Attach the gasket and along with its nut then attach the tailpipe to the trap and the rest of the assembly including the traps via the trap adapter. The last step is to check for leaks when you turn the water on.